The haul-out checklist and running gear

Hull surface

• Antifouling: how many layers, how worn, and when was it done?
• Blisters, cracks, repairs, filler, or patches of different paint. See Osmosis: serious or superficial?.
• Scratches or dents that indicate a grounding or a lift in a travel lift strap.

Keel

• The joint between keel and hull. A hairline crack, a "smile", or rust weeping from bolts needs a closer look. See Keel, rudder and steering inspection.
• Dents, flat spots, or repairs on the bottom of the keel.

Rudder

• Push and pull the bottom of the rudder. Movement beyond a few millimetres suggests worn bearings.
• Cracks, water weeping from the blade, corrosion at the stock.

Propeller and shaft

1. Blades: dents, chips, bent tips, roughness.
2. Shaft: turn it by hand, check it runs straight, look for scoring.
3. Cutlass bearing: lift the shaft sideways. Excess movement means wear.
4. Coupling and shaft seal: check inside after the boat is in the water.
5. Folding or feathering props: open and close them.

Sail-drive or outboard leg

Look for corrosion of the leg, the condition of the anode, and the rubber diaphragm where the leg passes through the hull. See Propulsion and fuel: outboard, inboard, sterndrive, IPS, sail-drive, and diesel vs petrol. Ask for its replacement date.

Anodes

Anodes protect metal parts from galvanic corrosion. A badly eroded anode shows an active galvanic problem. A new, untouched anode on an old boat can mean the previous one was stolen or the boat is isolated. Ask which metal they are, and whether the type suits the marina water.

Through-hulls and transducers

Note every opening in the hull and match it to a valve inside. See Seacocks, through-hulls and skin fittings.

Other items

• Bow thruster tunnel and propellers.
• Trim tabs, stabiliser fins, and their hydraulics.
• Log, depth and speed sensors.

Related guides

• Hull moisture readings and delamination
• Keel, rudder and steering inspection
• Seacocks, through-hulls and skin fittings